Three days by neighborhood: the center and San Telmo on foot, Recoleta's cemetery and Palermo's parks, then La Boca, the docks and a night of tango. Dinner starts at 9:30 p.m. and the city stays up.
March to May and September to November are mild, 59 to 77°F (15 to 25°C), with the jacarandas out in November. January is 86°F (30°C) and humid and half the city is at the coast. July is the cool month at 46 to 59°F (8 to 15°C), gray and fine for walking.
Where to base yourself
Palermo Soho or Palermo Hollywood for restaurants, bars and a quiet morning. Recoleta for the cemetery and the grand avenues. San Telmo for the market and the old streets; check the block before you book, it gets quiet at night.
Getting around
The Subte costs about AR$750 a ride; tap a contactless Visa or Mastercard or your phone at most stations since late 2024, or a SUBE card everywhere else. Buses (colectivos) take SUBE only and cover the gaps. Taxis and Uber are cheap by any standard; use them after dark.
The pink palace, the Cathedral and the mothers' headscarves painted on the paving. Free guided tours run on weekends and holidays, booked ahead at visitas.casarosada.gob.ar; bring your passport and arrive 20 minutes before your slot at Balcarce 50.
Walk the Paris-style avenue west to the Tortoni at number 825, open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. There is a line most of the day; a coffee with churros is the order, a table takes 20 to 40 minutes.
On Sundays the Feria de San Telmo fills Defensa from Plaza de Mayo to the square, roughly 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., with tango dancers in the plaza. Other days the antique shops around the square are open and quiet.
A 19th-century mansion turned into antique stalls, then the park at the end of Defensa where the city was founded. The Russian Orthodox domes across the road are the photo.
A no-frills parrilla on Defensa 855 that takes walk-ins: bife de chorizo, provoleta and a bottle of Malbec for about AR$35,000 a head. La Brigada round the corner is the smarter version and takes bookings.
Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Foreigners have paid since 2025, around AR$24,000 (about US$16) by card at the gate or online; Argentine residents are free with ID. Evita's tomb is in the Duarte family vault; pick up the free map at the entrance.
A 1919 theater turned bookshop at Avenida Santa Fe 1860, 15 minutes on foot. Sit in the boxes, have a coffee on the stage; free, and it opens around 9 a.m.
Posadas 1515, the city's old empanada house. Order a locro or a plate of baked empanadas and a glass of Torrontés; no reservations, a short wait at weekends.
Latin American art from Frida Kahlo to Berni, open Thursday to Monday noon to 8 p.m., Wednesday from 11 a.m., closed Tuesday. General entry is around AR$12,000 (about US$8), half price on Wednesdays.
Twenty minutes on foot to the lakes and the rose garden, free, best from October to December when the roses are out. Rent a pedal boat or walk the loop.
Taxi or a 25-minute walk to Plaza Serrano. The cobbled blocks around Honduras and Gurruchaga for leather, local labels and a bar when the shops close around 8 p.m.
Don Julio (Guatemala 4699) books out weeks ahead on donjulio.meitre.com; the daily wait list opens at 6 p.m. at the door with a glass of sparkling wine. Las Cabras on Fitz Roy takes walk-ins and grills the same cuts for half the price.
Taxi there (about 15 minutes from San Telmo) and go in daylight only. The painted conventillos, the street artists and the tango couples fill three blocks; stay inside them and keep your phone in a pocket.
The Boca Juniors museum beside La Bombonera, open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, around AR$41,000 for the museum and a short stadium visit. Hours change on match and training days; it is only worth it if you follow football.
Tours run daily 10 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. every 15 minutes, 50 minutes long, AR$34,000 (about US$23) for foreigners. The English tour is at 3 p.m. (also 11 a.m., noon and 1 p.m.); book online at teatrocolon.org.ar or at the box office on Tucumán 1171.
Don Julio's sister bodegón on Jorge Luis Borges 2108: tortilla, milanesa and house wine. Eat early so you can dance late; it books on Meitre, walk-ins are seated at the bar.
La Catedral in Almagro runs a beginners' class around 9 p.m. and a milonga from 11 p.m. for a few thousand pesos (about US$5), and you can just watch. The dinner shows cost US$100 to US$250 and are polished, not local.
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The practical bits
From the airport
From Ezeiza (EZE), 35 kilometers out, the Tienda León coach runs to its Pellegrini terminal near Retiro in about an hour for AR$17,000 (about US$11), with Ubers and taxis booked at the official booths inside the terminal running roughly US$40 to US$50 for the 45 to 90 minutes into town. Avoid anyone offering a taxi in the arrivals hall. From Aeroparque (AEP), the city airport, a taxi to Palermo is 15 minutes.
What a day costs
About AR$60,000 to AR$110,000 a day per person (roughly US$40 to US$75) for two meals, one ticket and transport. Prices move with inflation every few months, so treat every peso figure here as a guide and check the dollar equivalent on the day. A parrilla dinner with wine is AR$35,000 to AR$60,000; a Subte ride is under AR$1,000.
Where to stay
Palermo Soho and Hollywood
Boutiques, bars and the best restaurants on tree-lined blocks. The place to sleep; a Subte ride or a taxi from the center.
Recoleta
The cemetery, grand apartment blocks and the parks around the Floralis. Calm, safe and a little formal.
San Telmo
Cobbles, antiques, the market and the Sunday fair. Characterful by day; pick a well-lit street and use taxis late.
Got a day to spare?
Tigre and the delta
The Mitre line from Retiro takes about 50 minutes, every 15 to 25 minutes, for a few hundred pesos on SUBE. Then a lancha colectiva through the islands and the Puerto de Frutos market.
Colonia del Sacramento
Buquebus or Colonia Express cross the river to Uruguay in 1 hour 15 from Puerto Madero, roughly US$35 to US$90 each way; bring your passport and arrive an hour early. The cobbled old town fits in a day.
An estancia day
A ranch in the pampas near San Antonio de Areco, about two hours by road: horses, folk music and an asado that runs all afternoon. Book a día de campo through the estancia itself.
Worth knowing
Buy a SUBE card at any Subte ticket window or a kiosco for about AR$2,000 and load it with cash; buses take nothing else. On the Subte you can skip it and tap a contactless card or phone.
Dinner is 9:30 p.m. onwards and kitchens are empty before 8:30 p.m. Eat a late lunch, have a merienda at 6 p.m. and arrive when the locals do.
Tip 10 percent in cash even when you pay by card; the card machine has no tip line and the waiter will not see it.
The blue dollar gap is close to zero since 2025, and from January 2026 foreign cards settle near the official rate. Pay by card, pull pesos from a bank ATM for tips and buses, and ignore the cambio touts on Florida.
Tap water is safe to drink. Phones are the target for theft: carry it in a front pocket, not in your hand on the street, and take taxis after dark in La Boca, Constitución and around Retiro.
Things you can ask once it’s in the app
Plans change. Ask Chat and it proposes a reshuffled day you can apply, or just answers the question.
Book us the Casa Rosada tour on SaturdaySwap Don Julio for a parrilla that takes walk-ins near Palermo SohoHow much cash in pesos do we need for three days?Add a Tigre boat trip on day 4Which tango show is worth it if we don't dance?
Questions
Is three days enough for Buenos Aires?
Enough for the center, Recoleta, Palermo, La Boca and one night of tango. Add a fourth day for Tigre or Colonia; a fifth, an estancia and the real asado.
Is it safe to take taxis in Buenos Aires?
Yes, with care. Use the official booths at the airport and Uber in the city; the risk is a street cab with a rigged meter. Take one after dark in La Boca, Constitución and around Retiro.
Which day works in the rain?
Day 2: the cemetery is fine under an umbrella, then El Ateneo and MALBA are indoors and the parks can go. Waystop's rain plan is a second version of the day you can switch to, so nothing is lost.
Is La Boca safe?
Caminito's three blocks are policed and fine by day. Go by taxi, stay on the painted streets, leave before dusk and do not wander beyond the stadium blocks alone.
Add your dates, your hotel and who’s coming, then ask Chat to change anything: it proposes the edit and you tap Apply. Want a long lunch instead of a museum? Just ask. Every place is checked against Google Maps before it lands on your day, and Chat can tell you when to leave for the next stop. Going on to another city? Build a multi-city trip.