The car and the paper permit. You need a paper International Driving Permit beside your original license and passport; a photo of it is refused at every counter. The desks are not in the terminal: take the free shuttle from outside Gate 3 to the rental car houses. A compact is ₩45,000 to ₩60,000 a day plus ₩15,000 to ₩20,000 for the damage waiver.
The bus version. Blue trunk buses run the coasts (201 east, 202 west) for ₩1,150 to ₩1,200 on a T-money card, red express buses cross the middle for ₩2,000 to ₩3,000, and the airport limousine 600 reaches Seogwipo in 70 to 80 minutes for about ₩5,000.
Hallasan. The summit trails, Seongpanak and Gwaneumsa, need a free reservation from visithalla.jeju.go.kr, released a month ahead. Walkers who have not reached the Jindallaebat shelter by around noon to 1 p.m., depending on season, are turned back, so start at dawn and allow eight to nine hours. Yeongsil and Eorimok need no booking.
Closed days and the haenyeo. Seongsan Ilchulbong (₩5,000) shuts the first Monday of the month. Manjanggul reopened on May 30, 2026 after two and a half years of rockfall repairs: one kilometer open, ₩4,000, closed the first Wednesday, last entry 5 p.m. The haenyeo show on the free shore under Ilchulbong was at 2 p.m. at the time of writing and is canceled in rough sea; confirm at the ticket office in the morning.
The Olle trails. Twenty-seven signed routes, about 437 kilometers in all, loop the island, mostly along the coast and free to walk. Follow the blue ribbons (orange for the reverse direction), the painted arrows and the wooden Ganse pony heads that hold the stamps for the optional passport.
Black pork and the markets. Heukdwaeji is grilled by the portion on Black Pork Street in Jeju City and dipped in melchijeot, the anchovy sauce; ₩25,000 to ₩35,000 a head. Dongmun opens at 8 a.m. and its night market returns at 5 p.m.; Seogwipo Olle Market is covered, opens at 7 a.m. and turns to street food from 5 p.m.
Getting there. Fly from Seoul Gimpo, about an hour, with frequent flights from Korean Air, Asiana, Jeju Air, T’way and Jin Air. Ferries reach Jeju Port from Wando and Jindo in two to three hours, Mokpo in four to five, Busan overnight.
On the day. The wind on Jeju is real, even in May: bring a jacket that zips and a hat with a strap for the Ilchulbong rim. In rain, Manjanggul is underground and the waterfalls run harder, and Waystop’s rain plan gives you a second version of the day. Check the first Monday and first Wednesday of the month before you fix the east day.