How a yatai works. About twenty stalls stand along the river on the south tip of Nakasu from around 6 p.m. to 2 a.m., each seating eight to ten, no reservations, cash only. Order a drink first: it is the seat charge. Then yakitori, oden, mentaiko tamagoyaki and a small bowl of ramen last, ¥3,000 to ¥4,000 a head. Arrive before 7 p.m. and leave when you have eaten. Many rest on Sunday; rain brings the plastic sheets down, not the shutters.
Ramen by ticket. Hakata’s tonkotsu counters sell through a machine by the door: put in cash, press the bowl, hand the ticket over and say how firm you want the noodles. Hakata Issou near the station’s Chikushi exit is around ¥1,000, open from 11 a.m. until the soup runs out.
Dazaifu. The Tenmangu’s main hall is back after its first full restoration in 124 years: the deity returned in May 2026, and the temporary hall with trees on its roof is being taken down. Nishitetsu from Tenjin, change at Futsukaichi for the five-minute Dazaifu line: 25 to 40 minutes, ¥480. The Kyushu National Museum behind the shrine closes Mondays.
Passes and the airport. Tap any IC card on the subway, JR, Nishitetsu and the buses; a subway day pass is ¥640. The Fukuoka Tourist City Pass is ¥2,500, or ¥2,800 with the Dazaifu train, bought with a passport, and only pays on Dazaifu day. The airport is two subway stops from Hakata Station, about five minutes for around ¥260; international arrivals take the free shuttle to the domestic terminal first.
Nanzoin. The reclining Buddha in Sasaguri is a place of prayer and the temple enforces it: shoulders, midriff and knees covered, tattoos covered, no eating while walking, no selfie sticks or tripods, and groups of ten or more need written permission three days ahead. Inside the statue is ¥500, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., last entry 4:45 p.m.
The ferry to Busan. Camellia Line sails from Hakata Port International Terminal around 12:30 p.m. and docks in Busan about six hours later; the trip back runs overnight. From October 1, 2026 second class is ¥15,000 one way, plus a ¥1,400 fuel surcharge, the departure tax and a ¥500 terminal fee; the round-trip discount is gone.
Festivals. Hakata Dontaku fills the streets on May 3 and 4, and the Yamakasa float race finishes at Kushida Shrine at dawn on July 15. Both weeks sell out hotels months ahead.
On the day. Cover shoulders and knees for Nanzoin, and save the ferry booking in Waystop’s Documents. Museums close Mondays and the Asian Art Museum Wednesdays; the hours check will flag one placed on its closed day.